textile; 紡織品(Chinese) BM-MAS.865.b

Period:Tang dynasty Production date:8thC(late)-9thC
Materials:silk, 絲綢 (Chinese),
Technique:woven, 織造 (Chinese),

Dimensions:Length: 16.30 centimetres Width: 4 centimetres

Description:
Stein assigned one number to a group of 57 fragments of pattern woven silk: two of these are now in the British Museum collection and the rest are in the V&A. Various shapes and sizes are represented, including long narrow strips, and small rectangular and triangular pieces. Four fragments have seams and several have remnants of stitching. It is unclear what the fragments would have been used for. The smaller pieces may be cut-offs, and some of the longer strips may have served as ties. Silks were used for devotional purposes and these pieces may have suited various purposes. Putting the fragments together, it is possible to reconstruct the pattern, which has a geometric floral design in yellow, pale and dark blue, white and green on a red ground. The naturalistic design favoured in the Tang dynasty has been transformed here into stepped outlines, perhaps the result of Central Asian weavers’ interpretation of an originally Chinese design. Technically, these fragments belong to the same textile group as MAS.862 and can be identified as Sogdian samite. Weave structures: Inner warp: silk, Z twisted, single, red, 15 ends/cm; Binding warp: silk, Z twisted, triple, red, 15 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, green, red, white, light blue and dark blue, 32 passes/cm. Weave structure: 1/2S weft faced compound twill. 此類織物共有57片,其中2片藏于大英博物館,55片藏於V&A博物館(LOAN:STEIN.642)。其形狀大小各異,原來的用途不甚清晰,可能是從織物上剪下的,可能曾是系帶的一部分,抑或用於供奉。通過圖案復原可以得知其爲紅地上以黃、綠、白、淡藍和深藍等色緯線織出寶花紋樣。從技術上分析,這些紅地寶花紋錦已屬典型的中亞粟特織錦系統,應該是唐代中亞織工生産的。但由於這是極爲典型的唐朝寶花圖案,這可能是中亞織工對中國紋樣的一種不同的闡述。根據衆多的殘片,其圖案可以得以復原。 組織結構: 經綫:明經:絲,Z拈,單根排列,紅色,15根/cm;夾經:絲,Z拈,三根排列,紅色,15根/cm;緯綫:絲,無拈,紅、綠、白、深藍、淺藍色,32副 /cm;組織:1/2S斜紋緯重組織。
IMG
图片[1]-textile; 紡織品(Chinese) BM-MAS.865.b-China Archive 图片[2]-textile; 紡織品(Chinese) BM-MAS.865.b-China Archive

Comments:This fragment is cut out from the same textile of MAS 865.a.
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