textile; 紡織品(Chinese) BM-MAS.931

Period:Tang dynasty Production date:8thC
Materials:silk, 絲綢 (Chinese),
Technique:woven, clamp resist-dyed, 織造 (Chinese), 夾纈 (Chinese),

Dimensions:Length: 24.50 centimetres Width: 12 centimetres

Description:
This fragments of plain weave silk is patterned with the clamp-resist dyeing technique. It is not so well preserved. The pattern has a compact layout of quatrefoils, each with four orange flowers and blue leaves, with a repeat 6.5 cm in the warp and 5 cm in the weft direction. The undyed outline is quite clear and even, indicating that this piece was probably dyed with one set of clamps in two colours. Some parts of the pattern are missing along a line in the quatrefoils, which suggests where the textile was folded during the dyeing process. The clamp-resist pattern is in a style from the early to high Tang dynasty, but the technique of clamp-resist dyeing was invented in high Tang. Therefore this item can probably be dated to the high Tang or, at least, not later than mid-Tang. These two pieces are in a fragmentary condition. The deterioration may have been caused by an alkali substance in the pigments. There is another similar piece in the V&A Museum collection (LOAN:STEIN.544). Weave structures: Warp: silk, untwisted, single, 46 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, 40lats/cm. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. 夾纈絲織品,較爲殘破。圖案爲排列緊密的四朵橙色的花及其藍色的葉子,經向循環6.5cm,緯向循環5.0cm。未染色的白色圖案勾邊非常清晰也均勻,說明這件夾纈原來可能在同一套夾纈版上同時染成兩種顔色,圖案中心處損失了部分花芯,正是夾纈工藝需要織物在此折疊染色而造成的一個特點。 此夾纈採用的圖案依然帶有較爲唐代早期的特點,與盛唐時期的十樣花紋極爲相似。這種十樣花比寶花來得簡潔,而且在圖案佈局上沒有主花和賓花之分。因此,此件夾纈的年代可能在盛唐和中唐之際。 有可能是在印製時採用了偏鹼性物質,這件作品的保存狀況較爲脆弱。與此相同但較爲完整的一件藏於V&A博物館(LOAN:STEIN.544)。 組織結構: 經線:絲,無撚,單根排列,46根/cm;緯線:絲,無撚,40根/cm;組織:1/1平紋。
IMG
图片[1]-textile; 紡織品(Chinese) BM-MAS.931-China Archive 图片[2]-textile; 紡織品(Chinese) BM-MAS.931-China Archive 图片[3]-textile; 紡織品(Chinese) BM-MAS.931-China Archive

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