Pink Kui Long Feng Wearing Patterned Brocade Women’s Pei

[Pink Kui Long Feng Wearing Patterned Brocade Women’s Pei]

Pink Kui Long Feng Wearing Patterned Brocade Women’s Pei, during the Qianlong period of the Qing Dynasty, has a body length of 135.5 centimeters, a full length of 220 centimeters at both sleeves, and a width of 106.5 centimeters at the hem
It has a straight collar, a placket, wide sleeves, and a train that opens from left to right. It is trimmed with a pair of white satin straps under the collar, lining with a light pink linen lining. This Pei is made of silk brocade woven in Suzhou. The brocade weaving process is exquisite and consists of six satin patterns. The warp lines are divided into two groups, one is a pink ground warp, and the other is a textured warp (knot warp) interwoven with colored weft to develop a pattern. The brocade surface is decorated with flying phoenix and Kui dragon patterns: a row of flying phoenix heads are combined with variant peonies to the left; A row of Kui dragon heads combined with a string of plum blossoms to the right; They are arranged horizontally, staggered from top to bottom, forming a square continuous pattern with orderly and lively patterns. The pattern unit is 16 centimeters vertically and 9.5 centimeters horizontally, with each two rows being a circular unit. The color weft is available in sapphire blue, green, and white, using the weaving method of a long-distance shuttle. The remaining parts are woven in 14 colors, including bright red, pink, light snow gray, light yellow, green, yellow green, dark green, moon white, lake color, magenta, and agaric, using a segmented color change and shuttle weaving method. The colorful brocade surface, coupled with carefully selected patterns, makes this Pei a superb work of brocade during the Qianlong period and a typical work of Suzhou imitating Song brocade
The ink stamp on the back of the female Pei lining reads: “Internal Three Learning Notes” and “Nestorianism Habits”, so it is known to be worn by palace troupes and their teachers in the Qing Dynasty.