Zhang Bolin’s Chinese Photography Collection in 1909 (21) A Journey from Guanxian County to Wenchuan, Sichuan

On January 4, 1909, an American geologist, Zhang Bolin, and his son, Luo Lin, set out from Chicago and arrived in Shanghai on February 2 of the same year. During his stay in China, Zhang Bolun and his son successively visited 13 provinces including Jiangsu, Guangdong, Guangxi, Hubei, Sichuan, Henan, Zhili, Shanxi, and took more than 600 photos recording the social life of the late Qing Dynasty, which were later summarized into a photo album in 1909=“ http://www.laozhaopian5.com/jingdian/1891.html “target=”_ Blank “>Zhang Bolin’s Chinese Photography.

See http://www.laozhaopian5.com/jingdian/1891.html

<p, He returned to Xuankou Town at 4:45 p.m., left Xuankou at 7:10 p.m. on April 10 and returned. He visited the Erwang Temple along the way. In order to save time, he did not stay in Guanxian County that day

Photos taken on the way from Guanxian County to Xuankou Town

图片[1]-Zhang Bolin’s Chinese Photography Collection in 1909 (21) A Journey from Guanxian County to Wenchuan, Sichuan-China Archive

考察团沿着松茂古道,出了灌县的西关没多远,罗林往灌县方向拍了这张照片,这是100多年前最原始的都江堰风光,下方是飞沙堰,左侧的西关城墙依稀可见。

图片[2]-Zhang Bolin’s Chinese Photography Collection in 1909 (21) A Journey from Guanxian County to Wenchuan, Sichuan-China Archive

再往前走,考察团一行来到了玉垒关,罗林在和上图相似的角度,又拍摄了下方的飞沙堰风光。

图片[3]-Zhang Bolin’s Chinese Photography Collection in 1909 (21) A Journey from Guanxian County to Wenchuan, Sichuan-China Archive

到了玉垒关后,罗林站在城楼上,远远拍下了都江堰远景照片。考察团从图中的桥上走过,那是一条由粗重的竹绳悬挂,上面铺设木板而建成的索桥(根据他的描述正是安澜索桥)

图片[4]-Zhang Bolin’s Chinese Photography Collection in 1909 (21) A Journey from Guanxian County to Wenchuan, Sichuan-China Archive

从城楼下来,罗林在玉垒关的门洞中,往出城的方向拍摄了这张城外景观。

图片[5]-Zhang Bolin’s Chinese Photography Collection in 1909 (21) A Journey from Guanxian County to Wenchuan, Sichuan-China Archive

出了灌县的玉垒关,沿着石板路,罗林在弯道处拍下了此图,正前方是普通民宅,右侧画面的一座碑坊,是禹王宫的所在,再往前方的楼阁是二王庙,因为要赶路去漩口镇,考察团此时并未游览二王庙,而是在返程时进行了游览了。

图片[6]-Zhang Bolin’s Chinese Photography Collection in 1909 (21) A Journey from Guanxian County to Wenchuan, Sichuan-China Archive

沿着西岸的官道,罗林在一处油菜花田拍摄,我们可以看到油菜花已经盛开,一个村落出现在山脚下。

图片[7]-Zhang Bolin’s Chinese Photography Collection in 1909 (21) A Journey from Guanxian County to Wenchuan, Sichuan-China Archive

考察团绕过油菜花地,沿着岷江西岸的松茂古道继续前行,前方是一处较大的拐弯,河底满是冲刷过的巨石,几处民居沿岸而建。右下角的水边,有一个村民在钓鱼。

图片[8]-Zhang Bolin’s Chinese Photography Collection in 1909 (21) A Journey from Guanxian County to Wenchuan, Sichuan-China Archive

继续上行,罗林从高处俯拍,岷江的河道开始收窄,从黑白照片中,我们可看到从雪山而来的江水很是清幽,到了岷江的西岸,罗林对高山景观赞不绝口,他认为这些山脉是构成西藏高原的第一个山脉,海拔在3000-4000英尺之间,而一路走来的东部四川大多为平顶的矮山脊,陡峭的大山让罗林感到很壮观,景色不像之前很单调。

图片[9]-Zhang Bolin’s Chinese Photography Collection in 1909 (21) A Journey from Guanxian County to Wenchuan, Sichuan-China Archive

此图注释为四川阿尔卑斯山(罗林认为这些高山很似阿尔卑斯)的入口,江水出现在左侧,右侧的山坡可见隐隐约约的官道,至于是何处,则有待考证。

图片[10]-Zhang Bolin’s Chinese Photography Collection in 1909 (21) A Journey from Guanxian County to Wenchuan, Sichuan-China Archive

又经过一处油菜花地,左侧的土坡上是杉树,路的转角处有几间茅草屋,后方是竹林,远处的一座高山矗立。

图片[11]-Zhang Bolin’s Chinese Photography Collection in 1909 (21) A Journey from Guanxian County to Wenchuan, Sichuan-China Archive

半山腰的古道很是狭窄,罗林看见了一处茅屋,居高临下而建,下方的岷江只在右下角露出了一点。

图片[12]-Zhang Bolin’s Chinese Photography Collection in 1909 (21) A Journey from Guanxian County to Wenchuan, Sichuan-China Archive

再往前行,那座高山近了一些,大树下,一条路通向远处的村落

图片[13]-Zhang Bolin’s Chinese Photography Collection in 1909 (21) A Journey from Guanxian County to Wenchuan, Sichuan-China Archive

考察团顺着官道走到村子前,罗林以油菜花地和村落为前景,拍摄了这张他认为是四川阿尔卑斯山(有读者朋友反馈是赵公山,期待新图佐证)的高峰

从漩口镇到映秀镇途中拍摄是照片

图片[14]-Zhang Bolin’s Chinese Photography Collection in 1909 (21) A Journey from Guanxian County to Wenchuan, Sichuan-China Archive

考察团一行在4月8日下午到达漩口镇,第二天4月9日早上7点零5分,他们开始沿着峡谷往高山考察,罗林所摄的这张漩口镇照片景色优美,岷江与寿溪河在汇流于此,河滩上堆积着木料和毛竹,有几个人在忙着编筏,准备运往下游。

中间高地的宝塔是回澜塔,建于清道光年间(公元1844年),2003年建设紫坪铺水库,这里都被淹没,古塔也迁移新址。

图片[15]-Zhang Bolin’s Chinese Photography Collection in 1909 (21) A Journey from Guanxian County to Wenchuan, Sichuan-China Archive

考察团沿途经过的一处索桥, 漩口镇附近,不知道是什么桥。

图片[16]-Zhang Bolin’s Chinese Photography Collection in 1909 (21) A Journey from Guanxian County to Wenchuan, Sichuan-China Archive

考察团没有选择漩口镇往西的路线,而是沿着岷江的峡谷一路向北的路线。

图片[17]-Zhang Bolin’s Chinese Photography Collection in 1909 (21) A Journey from Guanxian County to Wenchuan, Sichuan-China Archive

山谷间的一处村落,住了好些户人家,田地在房前屋后,虽然交通不便,土地平旷,屋舍俨然,有良田、美池、桑竹之属,阡陌交通,鸡犬相闻,恰如陶渊明笔下的隐居之境。

图片[18]-Zhang Bolin’s Chinese Photography Collection in 1909 (21) A Journey from Guanxian County to Wenchuan, Sichuan-China Archive

罗林回忆到这条从北方流入的河流(岷江),流经一个陡峭的峡谷,峡壁大多是石灰岩构造,在距离漩口镇直线大约6英里的地方,他们发现了巨大的花岗岩山体,后来走到松茂古道的交叉口,老张柏林与王翻译沿着峡谷前往映秀镇,而罗林则顺着古道开始爬山。

图片[19]-Zhang Bolin’s Chinese Photography Collection in 1909 (21) A Journey from Guanxian County to Wenchuan, Sichuan-China Archive

这是罗林渐渐登上高处,向着南方俯拍的照片,下方的岷江穿行在峡谷之间,如同一条巨龙蛰伏。

图片[20]-Zhang Bolin’s Chinese Photography Collection in 1909 (21) A Journey from Guanxian County to Wenchuan, Sichuan-China Archive

前图同一位置稍微偏左,罗林又拍摄了一张面向南方的群山俯瞰图。

图片[21]-Zhang Bolin’s Chinese Photography Collection in 1909 (21) A Journey from Guanxian County to Wenchuan, Sichuan-China Archive

罗林沿着山坡爬到古道的尽头,又再去下一个山谷,然后径直爬上草坡,穿过灌木丛和荆棘,向北爬到海拔1722米的高坡,这张照片注释为往西藏高原的方向瞭望,罗林回忆中认为群山的壮观异常迷人,是地球上最伟大的山系,并对如此大体量的花岗岩山体感到很震撼。

图片[22]-Zhang Bolin’s Chinese Photography Collection in 1909 (21) A Journey from Guanxian County to Wenchuan, Sichuan-China Archive

罗林下山后,与考察团其他成员在映秀镇会合,罗林拍摄了映秀镇的岷江上一处索桥景观,随后返程,于下午4点45分回到漩口镇过夜。

漩口镇返回灌县途中拍摄的照片

图片[23]-Zhang Bolin’s Chinese Photography Collection in 1909 (21) A Journey from Guanxian County to Wenchuan, Sichuan-China Archive

4月10日早上7时10分,考察团一行开始从漩口镇返回灌县,在松茂古道上,罗林遇到了两个年轻的背夫正在路旁休息,他们为了生活,翻山越岭,背负重物。

图片[24]-Zhang Bolin’s Chinese Photography Collection in 1909 (21) A Journey from Guanxian County to Wenchuan, Sichuan-China Archive

快回到灌县的附近的官道上,其他人给坐在滑杆上的罗林拍摄了照片。

图片[25]-Zhang Bolin’s Chinese Photography Collection in 1909 (21) A Journey from Guanxian County to Wenchuan, Sichuan-China Archive

过了安澜索桥,考察团特地参观了二王庙,此庙始建于东汉年间,初为纪念蜀王杜宇的“望帝祠”,后在南朝时期齐明帝建武年间迁至郫县,原庙改为“崇德庙”转而祭祀李冰父子,宋朝时期封李冰父子为王,后世便称为“二王庙”,照片中山门处的匾额为“玉垒仙都”四字,这是因祠庙建于玉垒山麓的缘故。

图片[26]-Zhang Bolin’s Chinese Photography Collection in 1909 (21) A Journey from Guanxian County to Wenchuan, Sichuan-China Archive

二王庙的内景,照壁上有一个大大的“静字”,罗林在回忆中对二王庙评价很高,这座美丽的寺庙在构思上是相当独特的,它是为了纪念为成都平原设计灌溉系统的李冰父子而建,实际上是一系列的庙宇,一座建在另一座上,山坡上有许多台阶相连,看起来就像是一座建筑,风景如画又气势磅礴。

图片[27]-Zhang Bolin’s Chinese Photography Collection in 1909 (21) A Journey from Guanxian County to Wenchuan, Sichuan-China Archive

二王庙内的一处楼阁,几层飞檐展现了中国古代建筑的神韵,左上的廊柱对联清晰可辨:鸿恩周阖省、玉磊流恩永。表达了川人永不忘李冰父子的丰功伟绩与感激之情,下方的碑刻落款为清咸丰三年,即公元1853年重修。

图片[28]-Zhang Bolin’s Chinese Photography Collection in 1909 (21) A Journey from Guanxian County to Wenchuan, Sichuan-China Archive

二王庙内的戏台,两棵当时已经有百年的紫薇树种在石台中,周壁还刻有诗句

图片[29]-Zhang Bolin’s Chinese Photography Collection in 1909 (21) A Journey from Guanxian County to Wenchuan, Sichuan-China Archive

二王庙的大殿,一群道士正在殿中做着法事,主殿的门匾是“粒乃蒸民”四个大字,落款时间是清光绪二十九年(公元1903年),可惜罗林拍摄的这些二王庙建筑大多在民国时期的1925年被火烧毁,随后经过复建,到2008年汶川大地震又惨遭震毁。

图片[30]-Zhang Bolin’s Chinese Photography Collection in 1909 (21) A Journey from Guanxian County to Wenchuan, Sichuan-China Archive

由于考察团在灌县的行程很紧凑,也很辛苦,可以想象到,罗林一边拍照,随后又要找时间冲洗,难免会出现拍摄地未注明的现象,此图他就注释为四川的阿巴拉契亚山脉(美国的一座山脉),根据图片拍摄的大致顺序,可能为灌县境内,至于是何处,还须大家来判断了。

考察团从漩口回到灌县后,为节省时间,当天并未在灌县过夜,而是继续前往成都方向,到达新场(今都江堰市聚源镇)过夜,于1909年4月11日返回成都。

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