valance; textile; 帷幔(Chinese); 紡織品(Chinese) BM-MAS.855

Period:Tang dynasty Production date:9thC-10thC
Materials:silk, 絲綢 (Chinese),
Technique:woven, embroidered, clamp resist-dyed, 織造 (Chinese), 刺繡 (Chinese), 夾纈 (Chinese), sewn, 縫製的 (Chinese),
Subjects:religious object 法器 (Chinese)
Dimensions:Height: 46.20 centimetres Width: 281.50 centimetres

Description:
Of the three valances found by Stein in Cave 17, this is the most complete. The other two are now in New Delhi. The upper section of the valance consists of a wide border sewn with ten pieces, with eight suspension loops of plain weave or samite. The lower section comprises three layers: streamers of plain weave, gauze, damask on plain weave, twill damask, samite and embroidered silk of different shapes which are sandwiched between triangular tabs attached to the lower end of the border and several joined together pieces of various silks. Similar examples of different use can be seen in the murals at the Mogao Grottoes. The size of this valance suggests that it was probably used on many different occasions. First, it may have been an altar valance, as seen in many murals at Dunhuang, and as recorded in a list of property owned by the Longxing Temple (P.3432). Second, it may have hung in front of a Buddha statue. Or, it may have been used as the side flaps of a canopy, as illustrated on the painted side flaps of canopy LOAN:STEIN.620 in V&A collection. Weave structures: Foundation: A. White silk plain weave Warp: silk, untwisted, single, white, 44 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, white, 24 lats/cm. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. B. Red damask on plain weave with floral pattern Warp: silk, untwisted, single, red, 24 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, red, 39 lats/cm. Weave structure: 2-2 patterning weave for pattern on 1/1 plain weave for foundation. Pattern repeat: 2.7cm in warp direction and 1.3cm in weft direction. C. Blue silk plain weave Warp: silk, untwisted, single, blue, 47 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, blue, 27 lats/cm. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. D. Dark red silk plain weave Warp: silk, untwisted, single, dark red, 32 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, dark red, 16 lats/cm. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. E. Light yellow silk plain weave Warp: silk, untwisted, single, light yellow, 23 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, light yellow, 14 lats/cm. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. F. Yellow damask on plain weave with diamond pattern Warp: silk, untwisted, single, yellow, 45 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, yellow, 18 lats/cm. Weave structure: 4-2 patterning weave for pattern on 1/1 plain weave for foundation. Pattern repeat: 1.9cm in warp direction and 1.4cm in weft direction. G. Yellowish brown silk plain weave Warp: silk, untwisted, single, yellowish brown, 43 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, yellowish brown, 21 lats/cm. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. H. Dark green silk plain weave Warp: silk, untwisted, single, dark green, 42 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, dark green, 33 lats/cm. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. I. Deep green silk plain weave Warp: silk, untwisted, single, deep green, 44 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, deep green, 29 lats/cm. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. Valance streamer: 1.a. Brown silk plain weave Warp: silk, untwisted, single, brown, 47 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, brown, 31 lats/cm. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. 1.c. Reddish orange silk plain weave Warp: silk, untwisted, single, reddish orange, 46 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, reddish orange, 18 lats/cm. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. 2.a. White silk plain weave Same as A. 2.b. Stuffed small human figure made by gauze, clamp resist dyed Warp: silk, untwisted, single, white; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, white. Weave structure: 2-end complex gauze for pattern on 4-end complex gauze for foundation. 2.c. White silk plain weave Same as A. 3.a. Light green damask on plain weave with diamond pattern Warp: silk, untwisted, single, light green, 46 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, yellow, 16 lats/cm. Weave structure: 4-2 patterning weave for pattern on 1/1 plain weave for foundation. Pattern repeat: 1.7cm in warp direction and 1.3cm in weft direction. 3.c. White 4-ends complex gauze Warp: silk, untwisted, single, white, c.62 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, white, c.13 lats/cm. Weave structure: 4-end complex gauze. 4.a. Embroidery on reddish brown silk gauze with floral pattern Warp: silk, untwisted, single, reddish brown, 48 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, reddish brown, 14 lats/cm. Weave structure: 4-end complex gauze. Threads: silk, untwisted; Colour: Red, light red and blue etc., Gold thread wrapped around S-2Z ply silk thread, pale red. Stitch: satin stitch, gold couching stitch. 4.b. Green silk gauze Warp: silk, untwisted, single, green; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, green. Weave structure: 2-end complex gauze for pattern on 4-end complex gauze for foundation. 5.a. Reddish orange silk plain weave Same as 1.c. 5.b. Liao samite with dots on blue ground Inner warp: silk, untwisted, single, red, 20 ends/cm; Binding warp: silk, untwisted, single, red, 20 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, blue, yellow and white, 15 passes/cm. Weave structure: 1/2S compound twill weft-faced on both sides. Pattern repeat: 1.8cm in warp direction. 6.a. Embroidery on dark brown silk gauze Warp: silk, untwisted, single, dark brown, 40 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, dark brown, 11 lats/cm. Weave structure: 4-end complex gauze. Threads: silk, untwisted; Colour: Red, light red and tellow etc. Stitch: satin stitch etc. 6.c. Embroidery on red gauze with floral pattern Warp: silk, untwisted, single, red, 44 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, red, 15 lats/cm. Weave structure: 4-end complex gauze. Threads: silk, untwisted; Colour: white, yellow, blue and light greenish blue etc. Stitch: satin stitch and split stitch etc. 7.a. Purple silk plain weave Warp: silk, untwisted, single, purple, 44 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, purple, 16 lats/cm. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. 8.a. Greyish blue silk plain weave Warp: silk, untwisted, single, greyish blue, 40 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, greyish blue, 25 lats/cm. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. 8.b. White silk gauze Warp: silk, untwisted, single, white; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, white. Weave structure: 4-end complex gauze. 9.a. Light bluish purple silk plain weave Warp: silk, untwisted, single, light bluish purple, 40 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, light bluish purple, 17 lats/cm. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. 9.b. White silk plain weave Warp: silk, untwisted, single, white, 32 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, white, 21 lats/cm. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. 10.a. Red silk plain weave Warp: silk, untwisted, single, red, 40 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, red, 30 lats/cm. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. 10.b. Green silk gauze Same as 4.b. 11.a. White silk plain weave Same as A. 11.b. Light purple silk plain weave Warp: silk, untwisted, single, light purple; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, light purple. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. 12.a. Yellowish green silk plain weave Warp: silk, untwisted, single, yellowish green, 49 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, yellowish green, 32 lats/cm. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. 13.a. Light bluish purple silk plain weave Same as 9.a. 13.b. Silk plain weave, clamp resist dyed Warp: silk, untwisted, single, 48 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, 26 lats/cm. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. 13.a. Embroidery on dark brown silk gauze Same as 6.a. 14.a. White silk plain weave Warp: silk, untwisted, single, white, 44 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, white, 31 lats/cm. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. 14.b. Green silk plain weave Warp: silk, untwisted, single, green, 49 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, green, 18 lats/cm. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. 15.a. Embroidery on dark brown silk gauze Same as 6.a. 2.b. Stuffed small human figure made by gauze, clamp resist dyed Same as 2.b. 16.a. Embroidery on reddish brown silk gauze with floral pattern Same as 4.a. 16.b. Red silk plain weave Same as 10.a. 16.c. Green silk gauze Same as 10.b. 17.a. Green silk plain weave Warp: silk, untwisted, single, green, 52 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, green, 22 lats/cm. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. 17.b. Light bluish purple silk plain weave Same as 9.a. 17.c. White silk plain weave Warp: silk, untwisted, single, white, 36 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, white, 27 lats/cm. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. 17.d. Beige silk plain weave Warp: silk, untwisted, single, beige, 24 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, beige, 18 lats/cm. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. 17.e. Light orange silk plain weave Warp: silk, untwisted, single, light orange, 50 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, light orange, 22 lats/cm. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. 17.f. Greyish blue silk plain weave Same as 8.a. 17.g. Cyan silk plain weave Warp: silk, untwisted, single, cyan, 39 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, cyan, 29 lats/cm. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. 17.h. Red twill damask Warp: spun silk, Z twisted, single, red, 20 ends/cm; Weft: spun silk, Z twisted, single, red, 13 lats/cm. Weave structure: 2/2S twill. 17.i. White damask on plain weave Warp: silk, untwisted, single, white, ??ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, white, ??lats/cm. Weave structure: 4-2 patterning weave for pattern on 1/1 plain weave for foundation. 18.a. Blue silk plain weave Warp: silk, untwisted, single, blue, 57 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, blue, 25 lats/cm. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. 19.a. Yellow silk plain weave Warp: silk, untwisted, single, yellow, 49 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, yellow, 33 lats/cm. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. 19.b. Dark greenish blue silk plain weave Warp: silk, untwisted, single, dark greenish blue, 57 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, dark greenish blue, 30 lats/cm. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. 20.a. Purple silk plain weave Warp: silk, untwisted, single, purple, 45 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, purple, 19 lats/cm. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. 20.b. White silk plain weave Warp: silk, untwisted, single, white, 40 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, white, 24 lats/cm. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. 20.c. Yellow silk plain weave Same as19.a. 21.a. Embroidery on reddish brown silk gauze with floral pattern Same as 4.a. 21.b. Embroidery on dark brown silk gauze Same as 6.a. 22.a. Yellow silk plain weave Warp: silk, untwisted, single, yellow, 38 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, yellow, 28 lats/cm. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. 22.b. Embroidery on dark brown silk gauze Same as 6.a. 23.a. Light green silk plain weave Warp: silk, untwisted, single, light green, 40 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, light green, 19 lats/cm. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. 24.a. 红地花卉纹锦 经线:明经:丝,无捻,单根排列,淡红色,23根/cm;夹经:丝,无捻,单根排列,淡红色,23根/cm;纬线:丝,无捻,红、白、蓝、绿色,18副/cm;组织:五枚缎纹辽式纬重组织。花卉纹样,幅边宽1.0cm。 24.a. Satin samite with floral patten Inner warp: silk, untwisted, single, light red, 23 ends/cm; Binding warp: silk, untwisted, single, light red, 23 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, red, blue, white and green, 18 passes/cm. Weave structure: 5-end satin samite. Selvage width: 1.0cm. 24.b. White damask on plain weave with diamond pattern Warp: silk, untwisted, single, white, 51 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, white, 20 lats/cm. Weave structure: 2-2 patterning weave for pattern on 1/1 plain weave for foundation. Pattern repeat: 1.5cm in warp direction and 1.3cm in weft direction. 25.a. Embroidery on dark brown silk gauze Same as 6.a. 25.b. Stuffed small human figure made by white silk gauze Warp: silk, untwisted, single, white; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, white. Weave structure: 2-end complex gauze for pattern on 4-end complex gauze for foundation. (Belt: green silk plain weave; Face: white damask on plain weave; Shoulder decoration patch: samite; Eye, nose and mouth: embroidered with pink silk threads.) 25.c. Yellow silk plain weave Warp: silk, untwisted, single, yellow; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, yellow. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. 25.d. Red twill damask Same as 17.h. 25.e. Yellow silk plain weave Warp: silk, untwisted, single, yellow, 33 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, yellow, 35 lats/cm. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. 25.f. Purple silk plain weave Same as 20.a. 25.g. Red silk plain weave Same as 10.a. 25.h. Light bluish purple silk plain weave Same as 9.a. 25.e. White silk plain weave Warp: silk, untwisted, single, white, 34 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, white, 19 lats/cm. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. 25.j. Red twill damask Same as 17.h. 26.a. Light bluish purple silk plain weave Same as 9.a. 26.b. Purple silk plain weave Warp: silk, untwisted, single, purple; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, purple. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. 27.a. Satin samite with floral patten Same as 24.a. 27.b. Embroidery on dark brown silk gauze Same as 6.a. 28.a. Yellow silk plain weave Warp: silk, untwisted, single, yellow, 34 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, yellow, 29 lats/cm. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. 28.b. White silk plain weave Warp: silk, untwisted, single, whitee; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, white. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. 29.a. Blue silk plain weave Same as 18.a. 30.a. Embroidery on dark brown silk gauze Same as 6.a. 30.b. Purple silk plain weave Same as 30.b. 30.c. Purple silk plain weave Warp: silk, untwisted, single, purple, 39 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, purple, 19 lats/cm. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. 30.d. Blue damask on plain weave with diamond pattern Warp: silk, untwisted, single, blue, 45 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, blue, 24 lats/cm. Weave structure: 4-2 patterning weave for pattern on 1/1 plain weave for foundation. 31.a. Light bluish purple silk plain weave Same as 9.a. 31.b. White silk plain weave Same as 17.c. 31.c. Purple silk plain weave Same as 30.c. 31.d. Light orange silk plain weave Same as 17.e. 31.e. Greyish blue silk plain weave Same as 8.a. 31.f. Cyan silk plain weave Same as 17.g. 31.g. Red twill damask Same as 17.h. 31.h. White damask on plain weave Same as 17.i. 32.a.Green silk plain weave Same as17.a. 32.b. White silk plain weave, clamp resist dyed Warp: silk, untwisted, single, white, 46 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, white, 25 lats/cm. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. 32.c. Dark purple twill damask with scroll pattern Warp: silk, untwisted, single, dark purple, 42 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, dark purple, 25 lats/cm. Weave structure: 5/1Z twill for pattern on 1/2Z twill for foundation. 32.d. Light green silk plain weave Same as 23.a. 33.a. White silk plain weave Warp: silk, untwisted, single, white, 37 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, white, 23 lats/cm. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. 33.b. White silk plain weave Warp: silk, untwisted, single, white, 47 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, white, 33 lats/cm. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. 33.c. Stuffed small human figure made by white silk plain weave Warp: silk, untwisted, single, white; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, white. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. (Belt: dark brown silk plain weave and dark brown silk gauze; Head: white complex gauze.) 34.a. Light green silk plain weave Warp: silk, untwisted, single, light green, 34 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, light green, 27 lats/cm. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. 34.b. Embroidery on dark brown silk gauze Same as 6.a. 35.a. White silk plain weave Warp: silk, untwisted, single, white, 36 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, white, 25 lats/cm. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. 36.a. Purple silk plain weave Same as 20.a 36.c. Light orange silk plain weave Warp: silk, untwisted, single, light orange, 47 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, light orange, 19 lats/cm. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. 36.d. Purple damask on plain weave with diamond pattern Warp: silk, untwisted, single, purple, 42 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, purple, 19 lats/cm. Weave structure: 4-2 patterning weave for pattern on 1/1 plain weave for foundation. Pattern repeat: 1.5cm in warp direction and 1.5cm in weft direction. 37.a. Light green silk plain weave Same as 34.a. 37.b. White silk plain weave, clamp resist dyed Same as 32.b. 37.c. Light bluish purple silk plain weave Warp: silk, untwisted, single, light bluish purple, 38 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, light bluish purple, 27 lats/cm. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. 38.a. Light bluish purple silk plain weave Same as 9.a. 39.a. Undyed silk plain weave Warp: silk, untwisted, single, undyed, 36 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, undyed, 30 lats/cm. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. 39.b. Deep purple twill damask Warp: silk, Z twisted, single, deep purple, 30 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, deep purple, 22 lats/cm. Weave structure: 2/2 broken twill. 39.c. White silk plain weave Warp: silk, untwisted, single, white, 39 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, white, 25 lats/cm. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. 39.d. Light green silk plain weave Same as 34.a. 39.e. Light bluish purple damask on plain weave Warp: silk, untwisted, single, light bluish purple, 46 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, light bluish purple, 33 lats/cm. Weave structure: 4-4 patterning weave for pattern on 1/1 plain weave for foundation. 40.a. Brown silk plain weave Warp: silk, untwisted, single, brown, 28 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, brown, 23 lats/cm. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. 40.b. Yellow silk plain weave Warp: silk, untwisted, single, yellow, 32 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, yellow, 28 lats/cm. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. 長方形帷幔,在斯坦因發現的三件帷幔中這是最完整的一件,另兩件收藏在印度新德里。此件帷幔上方是一條由十塊織物拼縫而成的寬邊,釘有由八個分別由絹或緯錦製成的挂攀,下方有兩層,底層由各種織物拼縫而成作底,外層由各種織物製成三角形狀的飾片,釘於寬片之下,中層是鱗形、條形、結形等各種形制的垂帶,由絹、素羅、暗花羅、綺、綾、錦以及刺繡品等各種織物製成。這種垂帶在不同的場合可以稱爲蒜條、額帶或流蘇,我們在此統一稱爲垂帶。 《周禮•天官•幕人》載:“幕人掌帷幕幄帟綬之事”,揚之水在《帷幄故事》中認爲:“幕是上覆,帷是下圍,而圍又未必是圍繞,它的在旁也可只用間隔之用。”因此我們統一稱其爲帷幔。類似於此種型制的帷幔在敦煌繪畫中經常可以看見,但用處卻時有不同。從這件帷幔的尺寸大小來看,它有可能用於多種場合。一是用於祭壇或供案的周圍,此時可以稱爲案裙或桌帷(桌圍),敦煌壁畫上有不少同類例示。二是用於佛像前的帳額,或稱帷幔。P.3432《龍興寺卿趙石老腳下依蕃籍所附佛像供養具並經目録等數點檢曆》載:“佛帳額上金渡銅花並白鏹花,三面畫垂額壹。”這裏的三面所畫的垂額在與佛帳同處時應爲帳額。三是大型傘蓋周圍的傘裙,正如V&A博物館所藏彩繪麻布傘蓋(LOAN:STEIN.620)所例示的傘蓋四周的裙沿,均繪以流蘇狀物,正是對實際垂帶的描繪。 组织结构: 底布部分: A. 白色绢 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,白色,44根/cm;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,白色,24根/cm;组织:1/1平纹。 B. 红色花卉纹绮 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,红色,24根/cm;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,红色,39根/cm;组织:1/1平纹地上以2-2并丝组织起花。菱形花卉纹样,图案经向循环为2.7cm,纬向为1.3cm。 C. 蓝色绢 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,蓝色,47根/cm;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,蓝色,27根/cm;组织:1/1平纹。 D. 暗红色绢 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,暗红色,32根/cm;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,暗红色,16根/cm;组织:1/1平纹。 E. 浅黄色绢 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,浅黄色,23根/cm;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,浅黄色,14根/cm;组织:1/1平纹。 F. 黄色菱格纹绮 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,黄色,45根/cm;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,黄色,18根/cm;组织:1/1平纹地上以4-2并丝组织起花。菱形纹样,图案经向循环为1.9cm,纬向为1.4cm。 G. 蜜黄色绢 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,蜜黄色,43根/cm;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,蜜黄色,21根/cm;组织:1/1平纹。 H. 深绿色绢 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,深绿色,42根/cm;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,深绿色,33根/cm;组织:1/1平纹。 I. 墨绿色绢 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,墨绿色,44根/cm;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,墨绿色,29根/cm;组织:1/1平纹。 幕带部分: 1.a. 棕色绢 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,棕色,47根/cm;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,棕色,31根/cm;组织:1/1平纹。 1.c. 橙红色绢 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,橙红色,46根/cm;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,橙红色,18根/cm;组织:1/1平纹。 2.a. 白色绢 同A 2.b. 白地菱格纹地夹缬罗人 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,白色,密度不可测;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,白色,密度不可测;组织:四经绞地起二经绞花。 2.c. 白色绢 同A 3.a. 浅绿色绮 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,浅绿色,46根/cm;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,浅绿色,16根/cm;组织:1/1平纹地上以4-2并丝组织起花。菱形纹样,图案经向循环为1.7cm,纬向为1.3cm。 3.c. 白色罗 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,白色,约62根/cm;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,白色,约13根/cm;组织:四经绞。 4.a. 棕红色罗地压金彩绣花卉 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,棕红色,48根/cm;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,棕红色,14根/cm;组织:四经绞。 绣线:丝,无捻,红、蓝、浅红等。捻金线,芯线,丝,两根Z捻以S捻并合,淡红色。 针法:钉针、平针等。 4.b. 绿色菱纹罗 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,绿色,密度不可测;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,绿色,密度不可测;组织:四经绞地起二经绞花。 5.a. 橙红色绢 同1.c. 5.b. 蓝地圆点纹锦 经线:明经:丝,无捻,单根排列,红色,20根/cm;夹经:丝,无捻,单根排列,红色,20根/cm;纬线:丝,无捻,蓝、白、黄色,15副/cm;组织:1/2S斜纹辽式纬重组织。圆点纹样,图案经向循环为1.8cm。 6.a. 深褐色罗地彩绣 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,深褐色,40根/cm;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,深褐色,11根/cm;组织:四经绞。 绣线:丝,无捻,浅红、黄等。 针法:平针等。 6.c. 红色罗地彩绣花卉 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,红色,44根/cm;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,红色,15根/cm;组织:四经绞。 绣线:丝,无捻,白、黄、蓝、浅蓝绿等。 针法:平针、劈针等。 7.a. 紫色绢 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,紫色,44根/cm;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,紫色,16根/cm;组织:1/1平纹。 8.a. 灰蓝色绢 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,灰蓝色,40根/cm;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,灰蓝色,25根/cm;组织:1/1平纹。 8.b. 白色罗 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,白色,密度不可测;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,白色,密度不可测;组织:四经绞。 9.a. 雪青色绢 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,雪青色,40根/cm;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,雪青色,17根/cm;组织:1/1平纹。 9.b. 白色绢 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,白色,32根/cm;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,白色,21根/cm;组织:1/1平纹。 10.a. 红色绢 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,红色,40根/cm;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,红色,30根/cm;组织:1/1平纹。 10.b. 绿色菱纹罗 同4.b 11.a. 白色绢 同A 11.b. 浅紫色绢 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,浅紫色,密度不可测;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,浅紫色,密度不可测;组织:1/1平纹。 12.a. 草绿色绢 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,草绿色,49根/cm;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,草绿色,32根/cm;组织:1/1平纹。 13.a. 雪青色绢 同9.a 13.b. 白地夹缬绢 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,48根/cm;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,26根/cm;组织:1/1平纹。 13.c. 深褐色罗地彩绣 同6.a. 14.a. 白色绢 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,白色,44根/cm;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,白色,31根/cm;组织:1/1平纹。 14.b. 绿色绢 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,绿色,49根/cm;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,绿色,18根/cm;组织:1/1平纹。 15.a. 深褐色罗地彩绣 同6.a. 15.b. 白地菱格纹地夹缬罗人 同2.b. 16.a. 棕红色罗地压金彩绣花鸟 同4.a. 16.b. 红色绢 同10.a. 16.c. 绿色菱纹罗 同10.b. 17.a. 绿色绢 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,绿色,52根/cm;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,绿色,22根/cm;组织:1/1平纹。 17.b. 雪青色绢 同9.a. 17.c. 白色绢 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,白色,36根/cm;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,白色,27根/cm;组织:1/1平纹。 17.d. 米色绢 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,米色,24根/cm;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,米色,18根/cm;组织:1/1平纹。 17.e. 浅橙色绢 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,浅橙色,50根/cm;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,浅橙色,22根/cm;组织:1/1平纹。 17.f. 灰蓝色绢 同8.a 17.g. 湖蓝色绢 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,湖蓝色,39根/cm;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,湖蓝色,29根/cm;组织:1/1平纹。 17.h. 红色绫 经线:绵线,Z捻,单根排列,红色,20根/cm;纬线:绵线,Z捻,单根排列,红色,13根/cm;组织:2/2S斜纹。 17.i. 白色暗花绮 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,白色,根/cm;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,白色,根/cm;组织:1/1平纹地上以4-2并丝组织起花。 18.a. 蓝色绢 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,蓝色,57根/cm;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,蓝色,25根/cm;组织:1/1平纹。 19.a. 黄色绢 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,黄色,49根/cm;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,黄色,33根/cm;组织:1/1平纹。 19.b. 深蓝绿色绢 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,深蓝绿色,57根/cm;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,深蓝绿色,30根/cm;组织:1/1平纹。 20.a. 紫色绢 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,紫色,45根/cm;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,紫色,19根/cm;组织:1/1平纹。 20.b. 白色绢 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,白色,40根/cm;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,白色,24根/cm;组织:1/1平纹。 20.c. 黄色绢 同19.a 21.a. 棕红色罗地压金彩绣花鸟 同4.a. 21.b. 深褐色罗地彩绣 同6.a. 22.a. 黄色绢 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,黄色,38根/cm;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,黄色,28根/cm;组织:1/1平纹。 22.b. 深褐色罗地彩绣 同6.a. 23.a. 淡绿色绢 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,淡绿色,40根/cm;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,淡绿色,19根/cm;组织:1/1平纹。 24.a. 红地花卉纹锦 经线:明经:丝,无捻,单根排列,淡红色,23根/cm;夹经:丝,无捻,单根排列,淡红色,23根/cm;纬线:丝,无捻,红、白、蓝、绿色,18副/cm;组织:五枚缎纹辽式纬重组织。花卉纹样,幅边宽1.0cm。 24.b. 白色菱格纹绮 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,白色,51根/cm;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,白色,20根/cm;组织:1/1平纹地上以2-2并丝组织起花。菱格纹样,图案经向循环1.5cm,纬向1.3cm。 25.a. 深褐色罗地彩绣 同6.a. 25.b.白色菱格纹罗人 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,白色,密度不可测;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,白色,密度不可测;组织:四经绞地起二经绞花。(腰带以绿色绢制成;脸部以白色暗花绮制成,其上用粉红色丝线绣出眼、鼻及嘴;肩部装饰以红地纬锦) 25.c. 黄色绢 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,黄色,密度不可测;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,黄色,密度不可测;组织:1/1平纹。 25.d.红色绫 同17.h 25.e. 黄色绢 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,黄色,33根/cm;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,黄色,35根/cm;组织:1/1平纹。 25.f. 紫色绢 同20.a 25.g. 红色绢 同10.a 25.h. 雪青色绢 同9.a. 25.i. 白色绢 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,白色,34根/cm;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,白色,19根/cm;组织:1/1平纹。 25.j. 红色绫 同17.h 26.a. 雪青色绢 同9.a 26.b. 紫色绢 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,紫色,密度不可测;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,紫色,密度不可测;组织:1/1平纹。 27.a. 红地花卉纹锦 同24.a. 27.b. 深褐色罗地彩绣 同6.a. 28.a. 黄色绢 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,黄色,34根/cm;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,黄色,29根/cm;组织:1/1平纹。 28.b. 白色绢 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,白色,密度不可测;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,白色,密度不可测;组织:1/1平纹。 29.a. 蓝色绢 同18.a 30.a. 深褐色罗地彩绣 同6.a. 30.b. 紫色绢 同20.a. 30.c. 紫色绢 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,紫色,39根/cm;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,紫色,19根/cm;组织:1/1平纹。 30.d. 蓝色菱格纹绮 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,蓝色,45根/cm;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,蓝色,24根/cm;组织:1/1平纹地上以4-2并丝组织起花。 31.a. 雪青色绢 同9.a. 31.b. 白色绢 同17.c. 31.c. 紫色绢 同30.c. 31.d. 浅橙色绢 同17.e. 31.e.灰蓝色绢 同8.a 31.f. 湖蓝色绢 同17.g. 31.g. 红色绫 同17.h. 31.h. 白色暗花绮 同17.i. 32.a.绿色绢 同17.a. 32.b. 白地夹缬绢 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,白色,46根/cm;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,白色,25根/cm;组织:1/1平纹。 32.c. 深紫色卷草纹绫 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,深紫色,42根/cm;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,深紫色,25根/cm;组织:1/2Z斜纹地上5/1Z斜纹组织起花。 32.d. 淡绿色绢 同22.a. 33.a.白色绢 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,白色,37根/cm;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,白色,23根/cm;组织:1/1平纹。 33.b. 白色绢 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,白色,47根/cm;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,白色,33根/cm;组织:1/1平纹。 33.c.白色绢人 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,白色,密度不可测;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,白色,密度不可测;组织:四经绞。(腰带以褐色绢及褐色素罗制成;头部以白罗制成。) 34.a. 淡绿色绢 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,淡绿色,34根/cm;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,淡绿色,27根/cm;组织:1/1平纹。 34.b. 深褐色罗地彩绣 同6.a. 35.a. 白色绢 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,白色,36根/cm;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,白色,25根/cm;组织:1/1平纹。 36.a. 紫色绢 同20.a 36.c. 浅橙色绢 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,浅橙色,47根/cm;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,浅橙色,19根/cm;组织:1/1平纹。 36.d. 紫色菱格纹绮 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,紫色,42根/cm;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,紫色,19根/cm;组织:1/1平纹地上以4-2并丝组织起花。菱格纹样,图案经向循环1.5cm,纬向1.5cm。 37.a. 淡绿色绢 同34.a 37.b. 白地夹缬绢 同32.b 37.c. 雪青色绢 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,雪青色,38根/cm;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,雪青色,27根/cm;组织:1/1平纹。 38.a. 雪青色绢 同9.a. 39.a. 本色绢 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,本色,36根/cm;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,本色,30根/cm;组织:1/1平纹。 39.b. 油紫色绫 经线:丝,Z捻,单根排列,油紫色,30根/cm;纬线:丝,Z捻,单根排列,油紫色,22根/cm;组织:2/2破斜纹。 39.c. 白色绢 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,白色,39根/cm;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,白色,25根/cm;组织:1/1平纹。 39.d. 绿色绢 同34.a 39.e. 雪青色绮 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,雪青色,46根/cm;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,雪青色,33根/cm;组织:1/1平纹地上以4-4并丝组织起花。 40.a. 棕色绢 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,棕色,28根/cm;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,棕色,23根/cm;组织:1/1平纹。 40.b. 黄色绢 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,黄色,32根/cm;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,黄色,28根/cm;组织:1/1平纹。 40.c. 白色暗花罗 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,白色,密度不可测;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,白色,密度不可测;组织:四经绞地上以二经绞起花。 41.a. 红色绢 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,红色,42根/cm;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,红色,19根/cm;组织:1/1平纹。 41.b. 雪青色绮 同39.e 41.c. 红色罗地彩绣花卉 同6.c 42.a. 绿色绮 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,绿色,40根/cm;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,绿色,13根/cm;组织:1/1平纹地上以4-2并丝组织起花。 42.b. 紫色绢 同30.c 43.a. 白色绢 同A 43.b. 黄色绮 经线:丝,无捻,单根排列,黄色,55根/cm;纬线:丝,无捻,单根排列,黄色,21根/cm;组织:1/1平纹地上以4-2并丝组织起花。
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Comments:EnglishFrom Whitfield 1985:The survival of something once commonplace in the Buddhist temples of China and now so rare as this altar valance testifies to the wide range of the objects preserved in the sealed library of Cave 17 at Dunhuang. Of the three valances found by Stein there, this is the most complete; the other two are now in New Delhi. Painted representations of valances are extremely common among the wall paintings, and there are some handsome examples among the silk paintings as well, notably the top edge of the Paradise of Sakyamuni (Vol.1, Pl. 8-2). The basic elements of that painted valance are essentially the same as those of the one shown here: a broad top border, there of plain red silk, with an elaborate floral design, and hanging from this border a row of triangular elements, from which in the painting long tassels and small tabs hang in regular alternation. In the textile presented here, the row of triangular pieces of cloth is actually double. At their points hang little tabs or rosettes, while longer tassels hang from behind. Some of these long tassels are made of a single piece of material, often striking in colour or decoration, while others are made up of overlapping points of silk in different colours. Both the textile valance and the painted one contain white streamers tied with a symmetrical double bow. The little tabs are stuffed with small pieces of silk, and three of them take the form of human figures, one a female with a face of white damask and with features indicated in apricot silk. Behind all the hanging elements is a curtain made up of larger pieces of plain silk.There are over seventy pieces of material in all (see the sketch and enumeration of the component parts, Fig.5), comprising most of the varieties of fabrics represented in the Stein Collection, and at least one piece, of a ribbed silk, which is not otherwise represented. Though the valance is a rich source of information on the types of textile to be found at Dunhuang, its main value is as a complete assembly (only a few streamers at the right-hand end are missing), showing how every scrap of silk was saved and put to use as a furnishing for an altar or a canopy in one of the temples or caves. ChineseFrom Whitfield 1985:像这样的垂幕應該是在中國古代佛教寺院中最普通的,而現在卻极缺乏样例,這一例只能說明敦煌第17窟藏經洞收藏的物品之廣泛。斯坦因帶回的三件,這件保存狀態最爲完整,其他兩件為新德里國立博物館收藏。壁畫中多見描繪這種垂幕的範例,另外在絹繪作品中也有幾件精美的例子。在那些之中,特別引人注目的是《報恩經變相圖》畫面上端描繪的垂幕(第1卷圖8),其基本结构與本圖的垂幕大致相同:那繪畫上端的寬橫帶,是在淡綠色平絹上繪着美麗花紋,從橫帶垂落的三角形的裝飾,还有長穗飾和小玉飾從這裏交錯而有规律的垂下。本織品三角形的裝飾是兩層的,其中幾個上面還綴著小飾物。然后再從那後面垂下幾條很長的裝飾布,其多数爲一塊布做成,色彩和裝飾對比強烈。還可見與此不同的是各種色絹重疊在一起的布條。另外,無論是此實物垂幕還是繪畫中的垂幕,都有白色的蝴蝶結垂飾。小飾物是內塞滿小絹布而成,有三個是人形,其中一個臉部用白綾,眼睛和鼻子是紅色絹絲作成的女性形象。所有垂饰背後,有很大的平絹布做的幕。此垂幕是由七十多塊小片組成的(從素描和结构一覽表看,Fig.5),是斯坦因收集的染織品中最富變化的。斯坦因的收集品中,除此件外,至少還有一件本書未採用的棱形垂幕。根据那些垂幕,可以獲得有關敦煌出土的各類染織品的豐富線索,然而無論怎么说,其真正價值在於作爲完整的作品被保留下來這一點上(只是右端部分的飾物佚失幾件),可以看出是如何收集小片的絹,把它們缝合起來,用於寺院或石窟的祭壇以及華蓋装饰的。
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