textile; 紡織品(Chinese) BM-MAS.915

Period:Tang dynasty Production date:9thC-10thC
Materials:silk, paper, gold, silver, 絲綢 (Chinese), 紙 (Chinese), 黃金 (Chinese), 銀 (Chinese),
Technique:woven, embroidered, 織造 (Chinese), 刺繡 (Chinese), couching stitch, satin stitch, 釘繡 (Chinese), 平繡 (Chinese), damask,

Dimensions:Length: 14 centimetres Width: 6.30 centimetres

Description:
This is a triangular black twill damask with a diamond pattern, repeated 0.5 cm both in the warp and the weft direction, which has been embroidered in satin stitch. It is clear that the embroidery was designed for specific use as the motifs form a band. The main motifs of half-florets are properly finished and follow the original folding. They are arranged alternately along the sides of the band, those on one side being edged with a 0.1 cm wide paper strip covered with gold leaf. Those on the opposite side are treated similarly, but with silver instead of gold leaf on the paper strips. The gold strips are couched with red thread. There are similar examples found in Cave 17 and now in the V&A collection (LOAN:STEIN.524 and 600). They probably once formed part of a banner head. Weave structures: Warp: silk, S twisted, single, dark blue, 42 ends/cm; Weft: silk, S twisted, single, dark blue, 36 lats/cm. Weave structure: 2/2 diamond patterned twill damask. Embroidery: Threads: silk, untwisted; Colour: red, light red, pale red, blue, light blue, green and light green etc. gold strip and silver strip. Stitch: satin stitch, couching stitch. 這件殘片以深黑色暗花綾作繡地，菱格紋樣，圖案經向循環爲0.5cm，緯向爲0.5cm，織物表面特別光滑。其上以彩色絲線以平針繡出花卉紋樣，並釘縫片金線及片銀線勾邊，其中片金線以紅色絲線釘縫，片銀線以白色絲線釘縫，但銀箔已被氧化成黑色。 類似的2件殘片藏於V&A博物館（LOAN:STEIN.524和600）。綜合來看，此件刺繡似曾爲一條裝飾帶，甚至可能曾屬於某件幡首。織物是先折邊約0.7cm，再沿著折縫繡有半朵花的紋樣，兩側各有一列，一側爲紅粉色，另一側爲藍綠色，但均已被裁成碎料。 組織結構： 經線：絲，S撚，單根排列，深藍色，42根/cm；緯線：絲，S撚，深藍色，36根/cm；組織：2/2菱格斜紋。 刺繡： 繡線：絲，無撚，色彩：紅、淺紅、粉紅、藍、淺藍、綠、淺綠等。片金線及片銀線。 釘線：絲，兩根Z撚以S撚併合，白、紅色。 針法：平針、釘針。
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