Period:Tang dynasty Production date:8thC(late)-9thC
Materials:silk, 絲綢 (Chinese),
Technique:twill damask, 綾 (Chinese),
Subjects:bird 鳥 (Chinese)
Dimensions:Length: 27 centimetres Width: 25.40 centimetres
Description:
This rectangular fragment of twill damask is woven with yellow warps and red wefts, showing the pattern of a peacock with a knot held in its beak, part of an interlacing ribbon. Presumably this pattern was reversed so that two birds faced each other with the knot in between. This piece has been folded diagonally, probably indicating that it was used as a head for a banner. Unfortunately the colour is much faded. The pattern of paired peacocks with ribbons in their beaks derived from the design on official robes in the Tang dynasty. When Wenzong acceded to the throne in 827, the system of official robes was re-established, according to which officials of different ranks had to wear robes with different patterns. Wild geese with ribbons in their beaks and paired peacocks were among motifs in this system. However, the rectangular fragment seen here displays a single roundel and is similar to the patterns in twill damask with a single roundel enclosing peacocks and the samite with wild geese holding ribbons in their beaks, which both date to the Liao dynasty. Weave structures: Warp: silk, S twisted, single, light yellow, 50 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, brown, 30 lats/cm. Weave structure: 1/5S twill for pattern on 2/1S twill for foundation. 異色綾殘片,外觀方形,有明顯被按對角線對折過的痕迹,可能曾被用作幡首。該織物採用黃色經線和紅色緯線異色的方法織成,現褪色情況嚴重。其圖案尺寸較大,保留下來的部分爲一隻口銜綬帶的孔雀圖案,長有華麗的尾羽,推測原來的紋樣可能設計成兩隻相對而立的孔雀雙喙共銜一綬帶的形式。 這種雙孔雀銜綬帶的圖案應該是唐代的正式官服圖案之一。《新唐書》卷24《車服志》載:唐文宗即位時(827年)規定了官服圖案:“袍襖之制:三品以上服綾,以鶻銜瑞草,雁銜綬帶及雙孔雀”。這一雙孔雀圖案的循環應爲獨窠圖案,與內蒙古阿魯科爾沁旗耶律羽之墓出土的遼代獨窠牡丹孔雀紋綾和雁銜綬帶錦的情況極爲相似。 組織結構: 經線:絲,S撚,單根排列,淺黃色,50根/cm;緯線:絲,無撚,單根排列,棕色,30根/cm;組織:2/1S向斜紋組織地上以1/5S向斜紋組織顯花。
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Comments:
Materials:silk, 絲綢 (Chinese),
Technique:twill damask, 綾 (Chinese),
Subjects:bird 鳥 (Chinese)
Dimensions:Length: 27 centimetres Width: 25.40 centimetres
Description:
This rectangular fragment of twill damask is woven with yellow warps and red wefts, showing the pattern of a peacock with a knot held in its beak, part of an interlacing ribbon. Presumably this pattern was reversed so that two birds faced each other with the knot in between. This piece has been folded diagonally, probably indicating that it was used as a head for a banner. Unfortunately the colour is much faded. The pattern of paired peacocks with ribbons in their beaks derived from the design on official robes in the Tang dynasty. When Wenzong acceded to the throne in 827, the system of official robes was re-established, according to which officials of different ranks had to wear robes with different patterns. Wild geese with ribbons in their beaks and paired peacocks were among motifs in this system. However, the rectangular fragment seen here displays a single roundel and is similar to the patterns in twill damask with a single roundel enclosing peacocks and the samite with wild geese holding ribbons in their beaks, which both date to the Liao dynasty. Weave structures: Warp: silk, S twisted, single, light yellow, 50 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, brown, 30 lats/cm. Weave structure: 1/5S twill for pattern on 2/1S twill for foundation. 異色綾殘片,外觀方形,有明顯被按對角線對折過的痕迹,可能曾被用作幡首。該織物採用黃色經線和紅色緯線異色的方法織成,現褪色情況嚴重。其圖案尺寸較大,保留下來的部分爲一隻口銜綬帶的孔雀圖案,長有華麗的尾羽,推測原來的紋樣可能設計成兩隻相對而立的孔雀雙喙共銜一綬帶的形式。 這種雙孔雀銜綬帶的圖案應該是唐代的正式官服圖案之一。《新唐書》卷24《車服志》載:唐文宗即位時(827年)規定了官服圖案:“袍襖之制:三品以上服綾,以鶻銜瑞草,雁銜綬帶及雙孔雀”。這一雙孔雀圖案的循環應爲獨窠圖案,與內蒙古阿魯科爾沁旗耶律羽之墓出土的遼代獨窠牡丹孔雀紋綾和雁銜綬帶錦的情況極爲相似。 組織結構: 經線:絲,S撚,單根排列,淺黃色,50根/cm;緯線:絲,無撚,單根排列,棕色,30根/cm;組織:2/1S向斜紋組織地上以1/5S向斜紋組織顯花。
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Comments:
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