White ground gold walnut brocade

[White ground gold walnut brocade]

White ground gold walnut brocade, Qing Dynasty, 713 cm long, 76.5 cm wide. The old collection of the Qing Palace
This brocade structure is composed of three groups of warp and three groups of weft. The warp is arranged in the order of red, black and white 1:1:1, and the weft is arranged in the order of gold, black and white 1:1:1. The red warp is untwisted with the black and white weft, and the black and white warp is weakly twisted in the Z direction. White warp and white weft plain weave interweave to form a white ground texture. When black warp and black weft plain weave interweave to form a black pattern, the gold weft and red warp sink to form a plain weave. At this time, a double-layer bag structure is formed between the upper and lower layers. At the white ground texture, the black warp and weft are sandwiched between the two layers in the form of floating length; When the black pattern appears, the white warp and weft are sandwiched in the middle of the double layer in the form of floating length. The fabric has both positive and negative sides, without positive and negative effects. The golden walnut is made of plain interwoven pieces of gold and red warp, the black and white weft and the black and white weft and the black and white weft and the black and white warp are not involved in interwoven. The walnut core is filled with Ruyi and Fangsheng patterns, which are interwoven by three groups of warp lines, black weft and sheet gold. Although there is pocket structure in some parts of the fabric, it is only formed naturally to meet the needs of the pattern and technology and increase the fastness of the fabric. It is different from the double-layer fabric that deliberately pursues the mutual effect of the front and back patterns of the fabric
The pattern of this fabric shows a pure black rattan pattern on the pure white ground pattern. The flowers are clear and bright, full of velvet feeling, and the golden walnuts are twined with branches. It should be the famous “Huihui Gold Brocade” in Xinjiang, China, and the tribute of Xinjiang in the Qing Dynasty. The fabric is made of three groups of warp and three groups of weft, which are very rare in brocade. The weaving process is quite difficult, and it is the best work in Hui brocade. The color matching methods and traditional patterns of black, white and gold are still popular in Xinjiang, China